Blog# 7 - Back on the Mainland

With a sense of excitement and a bit of trepidation about the remoteness of our journey ahead, we leave Newfoundland to begin our travel down the Trans-Labrador / Quebec Highway (Expedition 51 as it is called). With just over 1,780 kilometres long, this highway combines Route 501 from the Labrador - Québec eastern border just after Blanc-Sablon to Happy Valley Goose Bay, Route 500 from Happy Valley Goose Bay to Labrador City, and then Route 138 from Labrador City to Baie-Comeau Québec. We have long planned and anticipated travelling this iconic highway and, finally, it is our next adventure. Hank Shouse who was a councillor and eventually mayor of Happy Valley Goose Bay had a dream of a road that connected across Labrador. He was referred to as the “Father of the Labrador Highway”. He advocated for the construction of this road and much of its construction was still ongoing when he retired from politics. Hank passed away a few months prior to the completion of the connection between central Labrador and the South Coast in December 2009.

But, before embarking on this iconic adventure, our first challenge is to sail the ferry crossing from St Barbe Newfoundland to Blanc Sablon Québec without mishaps. This is the same ferry crossing where Guy did not fare so well the time before. The good news is this time he passed with flying colours. A little drowsy from all the, just-in-case-medications ingested, but still with flying colours. So on we went…. Since we had already travelled the Québec and Labrador eastern shores a few months prior, and visited its many historic sites, we headed straight for the Labrador border and on to Port Hope Simpson.

Here we go again - ferry from Newfoundland to Labrador

Highway just after the ferry crossing toward Port Hope Simpson

As there are few amenities and no internet reception or cell phone services along the 1780 kms highway ahead, except in cities, we were told to pick up a complimentary satellite phone at the Alexis Hotel in Port Hope Simpson. It was never mentioned though that there is only one phone at that location and someone had already picked it up - oh well, we said, let’s live dangerously… We stocked up with supplies and filled with very expensive gas as the next stop would be Happy Valley Goose Bay over 404 kms away with only wilderness in between. We spent a good night at a beautiful park on the river just outside of Port Hope Simpson - a bit busy with locals fishing and just driving by but it did calm down after sunset. In the morning we were rewarded with a most beautiful sunrise before heading for our adventure. Beginning down this highway there is a sense of camaraderie, fellow drivers looking out for each other and showing respect on the road. There are a few rules to follow on this stretch of road and it seems everyone abides by them: always drive with headlights on, truckers have right-of-way, slow down when someone is passing, slow down put on flashers if encountering wildlife, and stop and help stranded drivers along the way. We did stop to assist someone on the side of the road and gave some extra gas we were carrying.

Boondocking Port Hope Simpson

Boondocking - Port Hope Simpson

Port Hope Simpson - Sunset

Port Hope Simpson - Sunrise

Helping out along the Trans Labrador Highway

Although we saw very little wildlife along this highway, there were many beautiful and interesting views to be seen. There is, of course, plenty of forest with dwarfed trees, barren areas that go on forever, and lakes and ponds galore to admire. All this mixed in with an abundance of swerving curves, ups and downs, rumbling of the gravel road, and the thumping over yet another railway track crossing which seem to unsuspectedly or miraculously appear around corners, at least a dozen times. And, let’s not forget to mention when we did stop for a break on the side of the road the ever annoying abundance of black flies looking for their next meal - us!

Bear sighting along the highway

Scenery along the highway

Scenery along the highway (dwarfed trees)

The sky looks like a painting

Scenery along the highway

Scenery along the highway

North West River is a small town just outside of Happy Valley Goose Bay. It is the oldest community in Labrador and was founded in 1743 by fur trader Louis Fornein. There are two museums to see here. Labrador Heritage Society Museum, which is an original Hudson’s Bay Company building used for fur trading. This museum is chalk full of history and many different and unique artifacts some dating back 200 years and most were donated by the locals here. There is a hand made metal fly swatter, oil fuelled clothe pressing irons, Hudson Bay axes which are apparently unique in curvature, we were told. There is even an old crib board carved on an antler. There is information about the Moravian Church which is one of the oldest Protestant denominations in Christianity founded in 1457. A Moravian church was established here around 1771. One interesting item we came upon is a Moravian Church Hat. These hats were worn by the women. An unmarried woman would wear a pink ribbon in her hat, a married woman a blue ribbon, and a widow wore a white ribbon.

Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Hand made metal fly swatter - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Oil Fuel Clothe Pressing Irons - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Hudson Bay Axes - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Moravian Church Hat - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Another interesting story at the Labrador Heritage Society Museum is regarding Leonidas Hubbard - an American journalist and adventurer who wanted to be the first to explore the interior of Labrador and document the large caribou herds and the Naskaupi Indians. In 1903, along with two other men Dillion Wallace and George Elson, Hubbard sets off in a canoe from North West River. They were suppose to follow the Naskaupi River but unfortunately followed the Susan Brook. After many months of hard portaging and with their supplies running out they decided to turn back. Wallace and Elson went in search of supplies and Hubbard stayed behind as he was too weak to continue. Wallace got lost in a snow storm but Elson managed to find help. Unfortunately Hubbard died before help arrived. Both Wallace and Elson did survive. Due to weather conditions Hubbards body could not be reached until March 1904 and was eventually returned to New York for burial. Mina Hubbard Wallace, Hubbard’s widow hired Dillion Wallace to write a book about her husbands expedition into the interior of Labrador. Supposedly she was so disappointed in the book that on June 27, 1905 she arrived in North West River to complete her husbands expedition, which she did successfully on August 27, 1905. Mina Hubbard was able to produce the first usable maps of the area, was able to prove that the North West River and the Naskaupi are the same stream, was the first to have photographs of the Naskaupi Indians, and gave firsthand accounts of the caribou herd. And, she did all of this in her skirt!

Leonidas Hubbard - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Mina Hubbard Wallace - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

One more of the countless interesting things here at this museum is about Elmer Karl Lakata. He was born in New York City and in 1954 joined the airforce and was stationed at Goose Bay. He traveled to North West River where he met Ethel, they fell in love and got married. He and Ethel lived in many different places around the world due to the airforce including here in North West River. Elmer started making mechanical dioramas depicting the lifestyle of the area. He donated all of these to the museum over the years. There are well over 80 mechanical devices on display here. Visitors are able to turn on each diorama and enjoy the mechanical movements and music coming from them - people dancing, people fishing, etc. It is really quite amazing the amount of detail put into each.

Mechanical Diorama - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Mechanical Diorama - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Mechanical Diorama - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River Labrador

Mechanical Dioramas - Labrador Heritage Society Museum - Northwest River

The other museum, The North West River Interpretation Centre, has exhibits that depict the lives of the native Innu and Innuit and the settlers in the area with the history dating back to long before it was named North West River. One very interesting piece is The Innu Tea Doll Tradition. Parents would make toy dolls for their children, children would carry these and play with them as the parents moved for hunting or trading. These special rag dolls were to be filled with tea and when the tea was needed they would empty the doll and replace its contents with grass and straw. Once they could trade for more tea the doll would then be refilled with tea. This was a way of minimizing items they needed to bring with them. The tradition of The Doll Making is still practiced today, not to carry tea but rather to show their skills and artistic ability.

The North West River Interpretation Centre - Labrador

The North West River Interpretation Centre - Labrador

Tea Doll - The North West River Interpretation Centre - Labrador

Northwest River - Labrador

Northwest River - Labrador

Northwest River - Labrador

In Happy Valley-Goose Bay we stopped to visit the Labrador Military Museum. This museum is in a building near the airport, upstairs in, of all places, a department store. This museum is excellent and it explains the military history of Labrador. The airport was established as a military air ferrying base and refuelling stop for transatlantic flights. Construction of the airport began in September 1941 to 1943. The three 7,000 foot runways were built in just 79 days. During World War II, 24,000 aircraft passed through this airport making it the busiest airport in the world at the time. The airport has played its part throughout history. During the Cold War the Goose Bay Airport was assigned key roles because of its location to see the enemy coming (surveillance radar station), the ability to intercept enemy bombers, and maintain a continual threat against the enemy. It has been a base for interceptors, a base for strategic bombers, and a base to train pilots for low-level flying. This airport has been managed and used by a vast amount of countries over the years and has the capacity to land the largest aircraft in the world. The main Goose Bay airstrip was expanded to 11,046 feet to accommodate the bombers making this the longest airstrip in the world. Because of the airstrip length the airport could be used as an emergency stop for the Space Shuttle. In May 1983 the Space Shuttle Enterprise stopped here for refuelling, the first time to do so outside of the USA.

Blue print of the 3 runways - Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Fighter Jet Pilot Seat - Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Space Shuttle Landing to refuel - Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

There was a display of RAF ( Royal Air Force) ties with service men’s names. The cutting of the ties was a tradition at Goose Bay that started back to 1974-1975. When a serviceman was going home a colleague would cut their tie off near the knot. This was a British Tradition: by cutting the serviceman’s tie this signified severing his military ties to Goose Bay. After visiting this museum, we realized how little we know of our own Canadian military.

RAF Ties - Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

If you get the ball in the middle you have the ability to fly a helicopter - Labrador Military Museum - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Guy’s big catch - Happy Valley Goosebay Labrador

Fermont Québec, another company town. Hmmm what to say. The wall. I am sure back in its heyday, in the 70’s, when this wall was constructed it would have been quite spectacular. The story of the “wall” is interesting though but unfortunately the structure as it stands today not so much. It seems a bit outdated and maybe even a bit institutional. Let’s start this at the beginning. Back in the 1960’s a couple of Montréal Architects were hired to come up with a plan for building a structure in Fermont which would accommodate the workers and families of the mine at Mont-Wright. Fermont was thus established in the early 1970s. When the town was still being planned, the two Montréal architects knew that the town would need some kind of wind break to protect the residents from the cold north winds. Instead of building a simple wind barrier, they decided to combine the functionality of a wall and a residential complex into one. This is how this unique building known as “The Wall” became. The Wall is over 1 km long and stands 5 stories high and protects the 600 houses in downtown Fermont. Of course today Fermont has grown beyond the reach of this wall. The idea for the wall came from a Swedish architect named Ralph Erskine who had designed a similar building in Svappavaara, a community just north of the arctic circle in Sweden in 1962. This self contained building has a hotel, bars, restaurants, grocery store, laundromat, hospital, swimming pool, police station, even a 3 cell prison. It also contains 440 residences. Everything is within “The Wall” so that residents never have to go outside in the winter which can last about 7 months. This wall complex though has seen better times. It now stands outdated and somewhat run down. There is very little light on the inside and air flow seems to be lacking. We spoke with one resident who seems quite happy to live there. Beyond that, the structural layout of the living quarters to conserve energy is quite interesting.

Fermont The Walled City - Quebec. Protecting residences beyond the wall from the cold winter winds.

Stairwells to private residences inside the Wall - Fermont Quebec

Daycare inside the Wall - Fermont Quebec

Swimming Pool & Fitness Center inside the Wall - Fermont Quebec

Local Pub inside the Wall - Fermont Quebec

After travelling through partly paved and partly gravel highways, through company built and run towns namely Happy Valley-Goose Bay, Churchill Falls, Labrador City, and Fermont, in the remoteness of Québec’s Groulx Mountains we finally found a bit of quirkiness. Over the years and still today, a group of artists called Amis des Monts Groulx (Friends of the Groulx Mountains) get together and make creative outdoor artwork and cabins at the trailhead of the many trails in The World Biosphere Reserve Manicouagan-Uapishka area. We walked along a narrow path and encountered many unique and creative things. There is an outhouse with a grassy “green roof”, a cabin with a DIY sauna inside, a totem pole, fairies, a checker board on a tree, a crocodile, and many more unusual and wacky art works. Taking pictures became quite a challenge though as the moment we stopped walking the hoards of black flies would attack.

Gravel Road - Trans Labrador Highway

Highway Scenery -Trans Labrador Highway

Another Railroad Crossing - Trans Labrador Highway

Highway Scenery - Trans Labrador Highway

More dirt road - Trans Labrador Highway

Churchills Fall - Company built houses - Labrador

Churchhills Falls -Company built houses - Labrador

Moss Roofed Outhouse - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

Inside Mossed Roofed Outhouse - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

Crocodile - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

DIY Sauna - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

Checker Board on a tree - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

Art Piece - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

Art Piece - Amis des Monts Groulx - Quebec

Mont Groulx - Quebec

And just like that - the end of the gravel road - Quebec

We booked the free tour of the Daniel-Johnson dam, formerly called the Manic-5 dam. Guy has memories of this dam from his childhood - even knows some words to the famous song “Manicouagan” sung by George D’or at the time. The Manic-5 dam was renamed in honour of Daniel Johnson Sr, the 20th premier of Québec who had been responsible for starting the project. Unfortunately he died on September 26, 1968 the day he was suppose to preside over the opening of the dam. Manic 5 (Daniel-Johnson Dam) was one of 7 dams built between 1959 to 1968. Manic 5 is designed with 13 arches and 14 buttresses. Buttresses are the projecting concrete structures supporting the dam wall against the incredible weight and force of the water constantly pushing against it. The dam is 702 feet tall and 4,311 feet long and contains 2,900,000 cubic yards of concrete. It is the largest multiple-arch buttress dam in the world. Driving down the highway and approaching this dam, it feels majestic and powerful, a massive wall countering the unrelenting forces of mother nature. We stopped for a while on the side of the road to admire and take in the immensity of it all. It is overwhelming. As part of the tour we were able to walk along the top of the dam and also walked deep inside the bottom of the dam. I must admit that it was a bit daunting knowing that such a massive amount of water was just behind the concrete wall where we stood (a wall 27 meters of concrete thick).

Approach to Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec (arches and buttresses)

Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

View of the Highway we traveled to Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Top of the Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Bottom of the dam. Admiring the Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Construction of the Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Construction of the Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

Construction of the Manic 5 Dam (Daniel Johnson Dam) - Quebec

After the Expedition 51 route, the Saguenay region of Québec was another interesting stop. I wanted to come here as I had read about Arthur Villeneuve who became famous for turning his house into a living museum. He was a barber by trade and while still working his trade started painting his house. He spent 100 hours per week for 23 months painting his entire home inside and out even the windows. In 1959 he opened his home as a museum for the public to admire his artwork - even as he and his family continued to live inside. Because he was “self taught” the art world labeled his work as “naive art” or “primitive art”. For me his art is as a whimsical almost abstract folk art and I get a light feeling of enjoyment admiring his work. His home has been recognized as a national heritage asset by the Canadian government since 1993. In I994, the house was moved to the interior of Building 21 at the Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie", where it still remains as a permanent exhibit. There are strict rules and unfortunately no photos are allowed. We did find some photos online and have included these so you can get a sense of his creativity.

Arthur Villeneuve House - Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie" - Quebec

Kitchen of Arthur Villeneuve House - Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie" - Quebec

Living area of Arthur Villeneuve House - Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie" - Quebec

Arthur Villeneuve Art work - Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie" - Quebec

Bringing Arthur Villeneuve House to Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie" - Quebec

Arthur Villeneuve House inside the Chicoutimi museum, "La Pulperie" - Quebec

Also a very interesting historical part of the Saguenay / Chicoutimi region is La Petite Maison Blanche (The Little White House). On July 19 & July 20th 1996, there was a devastating flood in the Saguenay and Lac Saint-Jean region. The flood consisted of a series of flash floods and was the biggest overland flood in the 20th century in Canadian history. The damage was estimated over 1.5 billion dollars. In the city of Chicoutimi the flood destroyed 488 homes, damaged 1,230 homes, over 16,000 people were evacuated, and 10 people died. Miraculously, The Little White House withstood the devastation surrounding it. Due to the water pressure, the house lost one of its four concrete basement walls, but luckily three walls still withstood the deluge. It is thought that loosing that one wall may have been the saving grace for the remaining of the house as the water now had a pressure releasing exit out of the basement. There are two explanations as to why this house survived. The first one being that Jeanne d’Arc Lavoie-Genest the owner of the home at the time was very religious and a strong believer of Ste Anne. She said a prayer and offered a rose from her garden to Ste Anne to protect her home while she was being evacuated. The other explanation is based on the construction of the home. Its foundation had been well anchored right into the rock with steel rods, so the foundations acted as a type of dam and the water flowed around it. Either way it was an interesting stop. The home is now a museum and the area directly surrounding the house has been developed into a park and no homes will ever be built here again.

La Petite Maison Blanche (The Little White House) as it stands today. - The Saguenay / Chicoutimi region - Quebec

La Petite Maison Blanche (The Little White House) during the flood - The Saguenay / Chicoutimi region - Quebec

Aerial view La Petite Maison Blanche (The Little White House) - The Saguenay / Chicoutimi region - Quebec

Church across the road from La Petite Maison Blanche (The Little White House) - The Saguenay / Chicoutimi region - Quebec

Beautiful stop St-Félicien - Quebec

Beautiful stop St-Félicien - Quebec

Dinosaures in Quebec - St - Félicien - Quebec

Best Blueberry ice-cream! - St - Félicien - Quebec

Every once in awhile we feel a need to take a break from the road, enjoy the luxury of a bit more space, daily showers, and sense of not needing to jump up in the morning and start the day immediately or wondering where we would sleep the next night, so we decided to stay in Québec City, in a hotel, for a few days. We had visited Québec City a few years prior so there was no urgency to explore the city just yet. We took advantage of our time here to do some laundry, shopping, relax, and re-energize. After over 4 months on the road we have come to realize how important these stops are for us whether they be a hotel, motel, or even a nice campsite with facilities. Let’s face it, we need spoiling every now and then.

Treme enjoying the hotel in Quebec City

View from our hotel - Quebec City

We did spend a day walking around the old section of Québec City; such a beautiful city filled with history and character. First we walked along Cartier Street and enjoyed the 34 giant lampshades along this street. Each lampshade is five feet high and eight feet diameter displaying their own unique artistic statement. We also stopped for lunch and ate sushi, the sushi pizza was délicieux!

Lampshades - Cartier Street - Quebec City

Lampshades - Cartier Street - Quebec City

Lampshades - Cartier Street - Quebec City

Delicious Sushi Lunch! - Quebec City

Quebec City

Quebec City

Quebec City

Quebec City

Quebec City

Ice-cream anyone? Quebec City

We walked along the Dufferin Terrace beneath which lies the Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site. There were four defence forts and two castles built in this location as this was an important strategic defence overlooking Québec City and the St-Lawrence River. From 1620 to 1838 the Saint-Louis Fort was the official residence and seats of power for the French and British governors. Champlain, the founder of Québec City, built the Saint-Louis Fort on this site. Governor Montmagny his successor had added on to the residence and had a terrace built for his guests. For many years, this building served as the governor's official residence and the terrace was private and reserved for the governor, his family, and guests only. In 1834 the governor’s residence ( Saint-Louis Fort) along with the terrace was destroyed by fire. In 1872 Lord Dufferin the new Governor General arrived in Québec City, as he loved the culture of the city he supported the idea to extend the terrace and preserve the fortified foundation. The terrace was originally 278 feet long and was extended to 1410 feet. In 1879 the new terrace was inaugurated and was renamed the Dufferin Terrace. It has never been enlarged since. In 1885 electric arc streetlights were installed which were the first in North America in a public space. When we visited Québec City years ago, the area under the terrace covering the remaining original building’s foundation was an active open archeological dig that had just been discovered. It was interesting for us on this trip to follow up on the progress of this dig. We found it quite amazing to the amount of work done and see the amount of artifacts that had been dug out. Interestingly we were told that often, latrines are where most artifacts are found. Latrines often provide the archeologists with a huge amount of information into the everyday lifestyles of the people. Back in those days, latrines were not only used as toilets but also were used as garbage dumps for the entire household. In 1729 latrines were constructed at both ends of the château - a total of five at the Saint-Louis Fort giving the governor and his wife each their own. Amidst the artifacts found, a unique painting also caught my eye called “Early Morning Chocolate” by Pietro Longhi. Back in the 18th century it was common practice for members of the nobility to receive visitors in the morning from their beds. This painting shows a servant serving tea and a Noble woman lounging in her bed while two distinguished men are around her enjoying a morning chat.

Dufferin Terrace - Quebec City

Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site below the terrace - Quebec City

Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site - Quebec City

Governor Beauharnois wine bottle seals - Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site - Quebec City

Artifacts - Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site - Quebec City

Cannon Ball & Fragments - Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site - Quebec City

Artifacts - Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site - Quebec City

Early Morning Chocolate” by Pietro Longhi - Saint-Louis Forts & Chateaux National Historic Site - Quebec City

After Québec City we drove to Lac Mégantic. In Lac Mégantic we came to visit the memorial of the 47 victims of the horrific rail crash that happened on July 6, 2013. What we found was a town in recovery, a town of resilience, a town that has rebuilt itself and continued past that horrible night when a train with 5 locomotives crashed and exploded in their downtown. The train was left unattended in Nantes 10 kms away - this was standard practice. that night, due to brakes failure, the train rolled down the long 10 kms grade. With 72 tank cars carrying 6 million litres of light shale crude oil struck Lac Mégantic and exploded during the night destroying downtown businesses, homes, injuring many and killing 47 people. More then 2000 people had to be evacuated. Over 130 fire departments and 40 volunteer firefighters from Lac Mégantic came to help. As this was a hydrocarbon fire, water could not be used; a Class B foam barrier was used to cut off the oxygen to the fire. The total amount used was over 7000 gallons at a cost of over $300,000, and it took 30 hours of non-stop work. In the end more than 30 buildings in the town centre were destroyed and all but 3 of the 39 remaining buildings had to be destroyed due to petroleum contamination. This is the 4th deadliest rail accident in Canada and the deadliest involving a “non-passenger” train since Canada’s confederation in 1867. The decontamination of the site took over 5 years to clean. A new town centre was rebuilt parallel to where the old town centre was situated. A memorial of the tragedy - a collection of whimsical artworks and heartfelt words - is located where the Musi Café once was, the first place the train hit and where many of the victims were that night. It is hard to believe, but, today, the railway tracks still cross right through the same area of town.

Railway explosion - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Railway explosion - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Railway explosion - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Railway explosion - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Memorial Artwork and recovery - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Memorial Artwork - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Memorial Artwork - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Memorial Artwork - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

Railway tracks today - Lac Mégantic - Quebec

We also did a brief stop in St-Pie-de-Guire to visit the Mouvement Essarts. This is a walk through forest to enjoy outdoor large size artworks created by a variety of artist from 16 different countries. Unfortunately the mosquitos were out in full force so we rapidly enjoyed the display. Continuing our drive through Québec we caught hints of the fall coming, green and yellow corn fields, trees full of apples, many already fallen to the ground, vibrant reds, splashes of yellows and golden trees starting to peek through forests of green. Fall will be here soon and the fall foliage is going to be colourful, bright, and a treat for our eyes.

Mouvement Essarts - St-Pie-de-Guire Quebec

Mouvement Essarts - St-Pie-de-Guire Quebec

Mouvement Essarts - St-Pie-de-Guire Quebec

Mouvement Essarts - St-Pie-de-Guire Quebec

The remaining part of our drive in Québec was a mixture of visits with friends and family. We made a quick to stop in Hatley Québec to visit new friends Jean and Jane whom we had met in Battle Harbour Labrador two months prior. It was nice to see them again and to share our travel experiences since Battle Harbour. We engaged in a wide range of interesting conservations and ate a delicious lunch with them. Their home nestles in a beautiful village on Lake Hatley and their house is a swirl of creativity, art works, and energy.

Flowers

Flowers

After Jean and Jane, it was onward to Saint Lambert to visit Guys sister-in-law Solange sharing conversations and memories of Lazare, Guy’s brother who had recently passed. We had lunch with Solange at one of her favourite place and from there drove on to Hawkesbury Ontario where we spent the night along the lake.

The next morning we continued toward Huberdeau Québec where Guy’s brother and sister-in-law live. Armand and Sylvie live out in the country just outside a village called Huberdeau, tucked away in the Laurentian mountains. Their home is warm and welcoming surrounded by trees, flowers, and nature. We shared many laughs and interesting conversations. They also have a chalet in St-Donat Québec (Sylvie’s family chalet - she has been going there since she was 3 months old). We had wondered why they would need to go to a chalet in the mountains that is only accessible by boat when they already live here in this beautiful country side setting. We soon found out why. We went to their chalet for a 2 day stay and there was that awe moment. This chalet truly is magical. One needs to experience this to possibly understand the peacefulness and the serenity of this place. At the chalet there is no road - so it is only accessible by boat. Their property lines borders with the wilderness of Mont Tremblant National Park. The chalet is solar panelled for electricity. In the centre of the colourful living space a beautiful wood stove provides ample heat and that wonderful smell of wood burning lingers in the air. Outside is an outhouse that has a moss covered pathway leading to it. This outhouse is exceptionally clean as Sylvie paints it religiously every year. Since the chalet is situated on a small narrow protruding peninsula, beautiful views of the lake and mountains can be seen through the windows and deck from all sides. We felt the quietness embracing us like a warm hug and enjoyed total relaxation. Guy and Armand tried their luck at fishing but did not bring back lunch; only a few nibbles but enjoyed their quiet time together. Sylvie and I canoed around the lake, my first time in a canoe. I was a bit nervous at first as I am not a strong swimmer but Sylvie quickly put me at ease which allowed me to enjoy the moment. There was no wind and the lake was so calm it looked like a mirror. Also there was a light fog that morning and the scenery was breathtaking. Treme, well, she just laid around on her bed and enjoyed the peace and quiet.

Scenery - Huberdeau Québec

Arriving at the Chalet - Sylvie & Armand - St-Donat Québec

Arriving at the Chalet - Sylvie, Armand & Guy (I was on dog patrol) - St-Donat Québec

Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Treme enjoying the warmth - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Dining & Kitchen area where the magic happens - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Sylvie knows all about mushrooms and which are edible and makes the most amazing meals!

Armand the famous barbecue chef! - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Outhouse with moss covered pathway - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Armand just chillin - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Just chillin - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Guy getting ready to go fishing - Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Armand & Guy fishing Chalet - St-Donat Québec

Leaving the Chalet - St-Donat Québec

We also ventured to Mont-Tremblant with Armand and Sylvie and enjoyed the small European style village. We rode the gondola to the top of the mountain for a panoramic view of the Laurentian mountains and a glimpse at the start of fall. That evening, Guy and I remained at Mont Tremblant and enjoyed the Tonga Lumina light and music display. This is a Sensory Experience that takes place on the mountain after dark. It is the story of the last giant of the mountain who has risen from his slumber - an ancestral protector of nature. Our experience started with a ride up the Flying Mile chairlift to the midway station on Mont Tremblant, little bit eerie going up and a bit of a kerfuffle jumping off. Then we took our time walking along a magical 1.5 km trail downwards through amazing sounds and sights. This experience was right up there as another of our awe moments on this trip.

Cable car up to Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Cable car up to Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Top of Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Views of the Laurentian mountains from the top of Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Top of Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Mont Tremblant Quebec

Views of the Laurentian mountains from the top of Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Views of the Laurentian mountains from the top of Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Views of the Laurentian mountains from the top of Mont Tremblant - Quebec

Village of Mont Tremblant - Quebec